Design Process
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Itchiku Kubota was very creative in his process of making the well known ‘Itchikiu Tsuijgahana’ kimonos, basing his ideas off the original tsujigahana. He revived this ancient method also incorporating new designs. He complicated the tie-dying method in most distinguishing characteristic of Tsuijgahana, an ancient Japanese decorative textile design method that also features elaborate brush paintings, intricate embroidery and gold leaf appliqués. He added unique collaboration and tie-dye methods.
There are many methods for producing Itchiku Tsuijgahana and each method is chosen depending on the style of the kimono being created. Below is one of the methods used in making 'Itchiku Tsuijgahana'. Method:
1) The kimono is made of plain silk. A background pattern is drawn on the kimono with a brush using Aibanaink or juice from a blue flower.
2) Vinyl thread is used to protect part of the kimono from dye (after which the thread is removed). This thread is pulled tight and sections of the fabric bulge into little head- shaped lumps around where the thread is looped and knotted. 3) The little bumbs are then carefully coloured with a flat brush. This step is the most delicate stage in the process. The original pattern must be memorized. The lumps are then covered with vinyl and bound with a thread.
4)The entire silk fabric is then stepped in the dye, however the coloured heads are protected. In some cases, the fabric is dyed and colour is then applied to the portions untouched by dye. 5) To fix the dye, the garment is steamed for 40 to 90 minutes. 6) Due to silk absorbing a given amount of dye at one time, to obtain the delicate balance of colours, the fabric is soaked in water, thereby allowing it to absorb other colours. Obtaining a chosen colour involves rinsing the fabric at least 15 times in running water. 7) After each rinse, to prevent the silk fabric from shrinking, 40 cm long pieces of bamboo are horizontally inserted so that the fabric is stretched. It is then stored in a well-ventilated area. The vinyl is then finally sewn into the fabric. 8) A small pair of scissors is used to cut pieces of thread while the fabric is held with both hands. The thread is removed diagonally: pulling force and direction depend on the knot. A finishing touch for the kimono is an embroidered, gilded or hand-painted hem. |